because 35mm film is smaller that the medium format 120 film that the holga was designed for, you get a cool effect of the image bleeding across the 35mm sprocket holes.
view examples of photos i have taken with my holga…
click below for text notes…
text notes from the slideshow above:
- i recommend gaffers tape, it is easy to use and does not leave a residue. it’s made by permacel and available on amazon .com…
- i discarded the plastic (4×4 or 4×6) insert and covered the two plastic runners with electric tape to reduce friction as the film drags across these areas.
- you can get the alphabet pads at a thrift store, toystore or walmart, cheap-cheap.
- cut the pads to hold the 35mm canister in place. if your camera does not have foam under the spools you will need to add some.
- a 1/4 inch wide piece of folded cardboard is wedged below the takeup spool to add enough friction to keep the film taut but still easy to wind.
- the rubber bands act as guides for the 35mm film but you could probably get away without using them…
- i always tape the film to the takeup spool.
- it takes 34 clicks (or 1 and a half rotations if you’re lazy like me) to advance the film between shots.
i use the 1.5 turn method because it is a lot faster and wastes less than 1 frame on a 36 exposure roll.
- note: to create a holga panoramic photo (like this one) wind the film 30 clicks and then take the next shot. you’ll need to scan your holga panorama yourself unless you have a friendly lab 🙂
- i add a thin piece of the foam on top of the canister to help fix it in place.
- the film plane is nowhere near flat so i add some thin cardboard to the back of the holga to help flatten it. if you also shoot 120 film in your holga you will want to cut a hole to see the counter (unless you use the 1.5 turn method for 120 too).
- don’t foget to tape over the counter window, 35mm film does not have a paper backing like 120 does. NOTE: Cover the window with aluminum foil and use tape to hold the foil in place, the tape itself is probably not light proof (i learned this the hard way).
- i tape the latches up so that the back does not open by mistake (not fun).
- after exposing your images, you will need to open the camera (DO THIS IN COMPLETE DARKNESS!) and wind the film back into the canister.
- Color Services processes my film. They are awesome and offer a great mail service including scans of your developed film.
- If I don’t have COlor Services do it, I scan the negatives on an epson 4990 flatbed scanner.
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